|Tout with his parrots in the Square of the Jewish Martyrs, Rhodes Old Town|
|What they sell most of in Rhodes is sunshine and play|
We weren't expecting that. The size or the gravity of this fortified medieval city took us completely by surprise. Its 15th century fortifications make those built by the same Knights of St John at Bodrum and at Kos look makeshift in comparison.
|The Palace of the Grand Master|
|Coats of arms on an inn in the street of the Knights|
|There are nine gates through the walls into the Old Town|
|The moat between Rhodes' two rings of fortifications|
|The entrance to Mandraki Harbour - legs over the water|
|Looking up the street of the Knights|
|The Inn of France is the most elaborate|
|The courtyard of the hospital, with pyramid of siege balls|
But it's the Knights whose put their stamp on the town most forcefully. What remains of those two warmongering Crusader centuries besides the massive walls and their gates and moats are a palace for the Grand Master (re-built by the Italians), an austere street of knights' lodges, a magnificent hospital (now used as an archeological museum), and around these and other large buildings, a tangle of narrow arcaded streets and pebbled alleys.
The Knights did lovely stonework, but they buried a lot of ancient Greek blockwork when they built their town. It peeks through in places. Look through the first-floor windows of the city's modern (sort of) art gallery, and you'll see the ruins of a temple of Aphrodite, smack up against parked cars. Then follow the traffic as it flows out through the Marina gate towards the harbour and around to the new town where people are doing what people have always done.
|Reverie by Orestis Kanellis (1910-79) in the Rhodes Modern Greek Art Museum|
|Habitue of Mon Cafe, Old Town|
|The Marina gate, and harbour traffic|
|The only synagogue in Rhodes|
|Looking across to Lindos in eastern Rhodes|
|Monolithos castle, on the west coat of Rhodes|
|There's always a goat....|
Rhodes is just "over there", but I doubt that we'll be back again. We've taken our measure of the old girl, from top to bottom, and once was enough.
|The ferry back to Marmaris|