|A tentative hand on the helm|
|Enki parked off the southern entrance to Port Gaios, Paxos|
We didn't have a plan for after we picked up Claudia, other than to let our new crew find her feet and then...make a new plan. Head back down to Levkas and Cephalonia, we thought. She'd like that. Cross to Sicily with the next full moon. Perhaps. What we didn't take into account though was the washing machine. (PICTURE BREAK - just so you don't get bored. A Corfu wedding. Totally random. No photos of washing machine available).
But you know the skipper. He starts thinking, and once he's in problem-solving mode, he won't be deterred. He doesn't like broken things. They offend his sense of order. That meant either getting it fixed, or buying another one. Either way, we had to sort it in Corfu. Only on this island where everything is so much more glamorous than anywhere else we've been in Greece would we find a washing machine small enough to fit on a boat. Perhaps. (ANOTHER PICTURE DIVERSION - Alex's photos are too good not to share)
Getting the thing repaired didn't add up (we do a lot of adding up). It's not only that our Candy front loader (3.5 kg dry load) is nine years old and has spent its life surrounded by salt water. Tight doesn't begin to describe the space it occupies in a cupboard in the shower recess in the forward head. We could hear the repair man's euro meter ticking.
So tomorrow, all going well, a van and two men from Electronet, one of three electrical goods stores on the road from Corfu town to the well-heeled north-east coast, will deliver a new machine to Enki at Gouvia marina. What happens next is what we don't really want to think about too much, though we've done all the measurements and we're as good as sure that we (and the two men) can get the old machine out and the new one in. If we can't, then...we make a new plan.
|Corfu old town - lane and laundry|
|Someone's badge of honour|
|British bannister (see below)|
|Palace of St George and St Michael|
|Looking out from the old fortress to Corfu channel|
|Inside the old fortress|
|Corfu cityscapes (and below)|
|Taramasalata - the best ever tasted|
|Mandraki harbour, beneath the fortress - very small|
|Too close - that's our stay|
|Too close here too - the yacht moved|
|Town transport for the super yacht|
|Motor vessel called Guilty, with exterior by Jeff Koons|
Whatever the size of your craft, you share the water equally. That's what we're here for. Greek water. Its shifting colour is hard to capture, as is the density of Greek light which makes what you see - its landscape and towns - so much more than the sum of their parts. There's a summer mood here which is so idle, so charmed, that you almost forgive the super-rich their ludicrous indulgences. They are part of the landscape in July and August.
|This is anyone's to enjoy - around Paxos island|
|Enki and the light|
|Corn seller in Port Gaios|