Friday, 17 July 2015

Too much paradise?

The foreshore of Rotoava, the village on Fakarava

The free wifi spot on Fakarava is on the front porch of a modest bungalow set back from the main road, about 2 km walk along the foreshore. The house belongs to young French couple,  Stephanie and Adric, who run their small business Fakarava Yacht Services, from home. Stephanie will do your laundry and sell you a tray of eggs. They will rent you bicycles. Adric will try to fix your boat problems, within reason. They provide free wifi for the price of a coffee or a juice and seem not to mind how long you stay.

The porch, Fakarava Yacht Services

The church (and below)

You share the porch with their kids and friends.

We're sitting here, we cruisers, buying books on Amazon, checking email, doing banking and picking the brains of Sabine and Gary, the dive centre operators from Kauehi who came in yesterday to support the home team in the Fakarava dance competition.

The Kauehi dancers

Fakarava dancers (and below)

There has been rather a strong emphasis on retail since we've come into Fakarava, at least compared to the past few months. The mamas here are selling their shell and pearl work in a tent set back from the gymnasium where the dancing and singing takes place in the evening. Their work is superb, and for me and my wastrel companion Marce, irresistible. "Are you sisters?" one of the mamans asked us. We looked at each other. Same fine hair, same pinheads. We laughed. We could be.


We bought earrings from her, and from her sister, and from their sister-in-law. You have to spread your favours.

Marce and Diana help out the local economy

The dancing continues tonight. We are spellbound, torn between staying for more of the spectacle and moving south towards the famed snorkelling of Fakarava's south pass. Tomorrow, we say, after the pirogue racing...

Anchorage off Rotoava village

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